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Credit: BehindTheChair.com

It’s an accomplishing feeling when you can style your client exactly how they want, all in one session. Whether it’s a quick style or color transformation, as a professional hairdresser, you are trusted to make your client’s vision come to life. One of our very own Global Board Artists, Anna Cantu has shared an easy styling tutorial for you on how to transform a client from brunette to blonde.

1. Tone As You Lift For Cool Results

The key factor for single-session blonde-to-brunette transformations is lifting. Anna used CHI Bleach & Shine Lightener, starting with 20-volume and working up to 30-volume. The natural blue tone started to neutralize yellow and orange pigments that were exposed when lifting.

Bleach & Shine is also great for single sessions because you CAN use heat for maximum lift. As the foils were processing, Anna decided to do 10 minutes under some heat to kick off the lift, and then another 20 minutes without heat.

2. Foil Placement For Maximum Impact

It’s all about details…especially around the client’s hairline, which is why Anna took 1/8-inch and 1/2-inch babylight sections with darker, Level 3 canvases.

“It’s so important to take fine sections that you can see through,” says Anna. “Don’t cheat with bigger sections or you won’t achieve enough impact in only one session.”

Sectioning Breakdown

  • Face Frame: Create a triangle shape through the top
  • Ears: Create diagonal parts near the ear points on both sides
  • Top temple area: Create a U-shape part to the apex, then create a triangle from that point to both of the ear points
  • Back: Create a low V-part into the nape area for hairline detail
  • The ends of the hair: Balayage

3. What if the Foils Process too Fast?

If you notice during the foil application process that some sections are looking brighter than others, don’t stress out! To slow down lifting, Anna suggests using the CHI Bond & Seal Treatment. You then should grab a towel and mist directly on the hair to slow down lightener activation and gently dab it. It also helps equalize the porosity and pH levels.

 

Other Ways You Can Use Bond & Seal

  • Protection- mist all over your client’s hair before sectioning and lifting, especially on prelightened ends.
  • Preparation- Formulated with aloe vera, it is good for conditioning the hair.
  • Retail- Clients love to try the products they see their stylists use when getting serviced. Because the Bond & Seal is a natural bonder, it is really easy to use at home!

4. What if My Client Has Been Previously Blonde?

If your client has already had pre-lightened ends, Anna suggests the “balayage” method as a quick way to add brightness in between foils. She recommends mixing CHI® Bleach & Shine with a developer (1:2) for the best consistency. To finalize this process, Anna encourages you to paint the ends in a V-shape and then use saran wrap to control the heat.

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